Visitors flock to the Sonoran Desert and Grand Canyon in Arizona, but stark, arid canyons and lonely cacti are only a part of what this colorful state has to offer the adventurous traveler. Grand Canyon National Park, the state's biggest draw, lies between Lake Powell to the north and Lake Mead to the south, both formed by dams on the mighty Colorado River. 277 miles long and over one mile deep, the Canyon is criss-crossed by several challenging trails, but can also be viewed by car or by mule train. The city of Flagstaff offers easy access to new-agey Sedona and Petrified Forest National Park, where hundreds of millions of years ago volcanic ash preserved ancient swamplands, turning trees to rainbow-colored stone. To the north of the Forest, the Painted Desert offers backcountry camping and hiking trails. Astronomy buffs will enjoy touring the telescopes at the Lowell Observatory, and skiing, hiking, and mountain biking are popular in the Coconino National Forest outside the city. Remnants of 13th -century dwellings may be seen in Walnut Canyon National Monument, and to the north of Flagstaff, Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument offers nature trails through black lava fields. Inside the 27,000 square mile Navajo Nation, the largest Native American reservation in the US, visitors can view spectacular rock formations at Monument Valley, Canyon de Chelly, Navajo National Monument, Rainbow Bridge, and Antelope Canyon. In Phoenix, the state capital, museum-goers will enjoy the Native American art collection at the Heard Museum, and exhibits of desert flora and fauna at the Desert Botanical Garden and Phoenix Zoo. Informative tours are offered at Frank Lloyd Wright's winter camp, Taliesin West, now the campus of an architectural college near Scottsdale. Spectacular vistas, old mines, and glittering lakes may be seen east of Phoenix along steep, winding Route 88, also known as the Apache Trail. Tucson, home of the University of Arizona, is known for its Mexican culture and cuisine, caves, cactus-filled Saguaro National Park, the man-made ecosystem known as Biosphere 2, and Spanish missions dating from the 18th century. More than a little of the Wild West remains in Tombstone, where daily gunfights are staged at the O.K. Corral, and the artists' colony at Bisbee, formerly a mining town, offers galleries filled with Western art and tours of now-defunct copper mines. Roadhouses and honky-tonks provide local color along state highways and in dusty small towns, and Pueblo pottery and turquoise jewelry are sold throughout the state. Distinctive B&Bs, inns, and lodges provide comfortable and often luxurious accommodations with magnificent redrock views and classic Southwestern decor.